Cherlyn turned to me and said, “You know, since I was young, I’d always look forward to this part of the flight, it’s the best. This is the beginning of adventure.” breaking out into a smile, as the airbus A310 revved its engine in preparation for take-off.
I nodded enthusiastically, and we both settled deeper into the plush cushioned seat of the plane as the forward momentum of the plane thrust us backwards. Cherlyn and I have gotten along very well as cousins for the past twenty-one years, thereby attaining legal freedom together this year and by this parent-free trip, household liberation also.
The sky was full of white plump clouds that looked like they would bring rain later on in the day; hence day-break was pretty gray at 7:30am at the time of take-off. However, as the small jet of 220 passengers gained altitude and passed the low-level puffs of grayish clouds, the fractocumulus, and further higher, the sun-blocking layer of altostratus, we broke through into a fantastic landscape of complete whiteness stretching as far as the eye can see, illuminated by the bright golden sun, so dazzling as to be impossible to look at directly.
I imagined that this would be what the Arctic would look like, if I had a chance to visit. My breath stuck in my throat and incidentally deaf due to the change in air pressure, I silently admired the beauty of the clouds, which had formed a concrete layer of solid ice yet looking as soft as fleece. I was entranced and momentarily forgot that I was 20,000 feet above sea level, instead becoming absorbed in my fantasy of describing the North Pole, with mountain peaks that poked above even the white landscape in some places and sparse wisps of high level clouds that were more fittingly mists of these mountains. Musing that clouds were indeed ice, I am probably not far off the mark
Too soon, the hour passed away and Cherlyn finally stirred from her short nap as the Captain announced that we were about to land at the Sultan Mahmud Airport. As she sat rubbing her eyes, I continued to survey the ground below. Stretching along the coast, Kuala Terrenganu was not unlike Kuala Lumpur, with many high rise steel buildings, that although were not as majestic as those in our hometown, were gray enough. I despised cities. Turning my attention to the rural areas inland, I was briefly amused at the new multi-colored bungalows that were favored here. Everywhere I looked, houses were painted neon yellows, greens and pinks. The old-style Malay houses made of wood and stilts were few and far in between, I noted sadly that perhaps rural life is dying out even here.
Finally, I’ve come to my own favorite part, touch-down. I began to feel that I’ve arrived for adventure and I couldn’t wait to get off the plane, and rush off to Redang island.
Queuing in a haphazard line, at a pavilion of a small wooden café at the jetty, I waited to register for the boat ride to Laguna Resort located at the east side of the island. Happily I handed over my hotel passes and was told, to my slight disappointment, that my boat was not due for another half hour.
We shared a table with a group of young men and noted that almost every other tourist were either in a large group of friends or family, or coupled, Cherlyn and I passed lonesome glances at each other. Most of the vacationers were youngsters and were making a riot, joking and laughing noisily. We, on the other hand, were pretty dazed after three hours of traveling, including the one hour bus ride that brought us from the airport to the jetty. We did not really look forward to another hour of boat ride in order to get to this mystical island.
Fortunately for us, the boatman, seeing two forlorn young girls, took pity on us and placed us in the captain’s cabin quite unexpectedly, to our extreme delight. I had asked the boatman rather cheekily whether we could sit at the sun deck and he replied, “Sure, but you’ve got to wait till everybody else has boarded into the cramped passenger cabin first, then you stealthily climb upstairs, okay?” with a wink.
As we stretched out on the sundeck, I turned to Cherlyn and remarked cheerily, “This is great. There is an advantage to being just two; we’re getting V.I.P. treatment right from setting off!”
We both enjoyed the beautiful marine-blue sea that sparkled like spring water. The weather was perfect; the sky was painted blue with only wisps of clear-weather cirrus clouds, and the sun was only just beginning to heat the air, although it was already a white-hot ball, far away and benign. We both untied our shoulder-length hair and let the wind blow it into disarray as the warm breeze carried the salt of the sea to our noses. Sprays of sea water fountained upon us occasionally but not enough to wet our spirits. Our enchanted holiday had begun. Shortly, not wanting to be burnt since we didn’t put on sunblock lotion, we returned to the captain’s cabin.
“So what are your names?” The dark-skinned captain asked us in deeply accented Malay, as we poked our heads through the low door from the sundeck.
“I am Elaine, and my friend is Cherlyn.” I answered hesitantly, “and what is yours?”
“Mi, and my assistant boatman is Eddie.” Mi replied, pointing to another sun-darkened rough-weather looking man. They both looked in their late twenties, wearing Laguna’s T-shirt and pants.
“Where do you come from?” He continued amiably.
“We are from Kuala Lumpur, and you?”
“Locals. We were born on Redang island, and lived there all our lives. Love the islands and the sea. Have you ever seen water like crystals? I’d be bringing you to see that shortly.” He nodded proudly.
“Great. Can we take photos pretending that I drove the boat?” I asked gingerly.
“Just take photos? Nah, you can drive the boat.”
“Really?” I exclaimed, eyes wide with pleasant surprise. “You’re not kidding, are you? I have never touched the steering wheel of a real boat before.”
He smiled, and gestured for me to take over.
Unbelievingly, I walked over and took hold of the steering wheel. Mi went on to teach me how to steer, and it was remarkably easy.
“You see those two points of smoke on the horizon over there? Yes, just follow that.” and with these instructions, he left me with Cherlyn and his assistant, Eddie and went to the sundeck for a smoke!
I drove the boat for about 20mins, enjoying my first time handling a ship, though a small one, but still carrying a significant 40 passengers on board. After a while, Cherlyn offered to try her hand and I passed the wheel to her, telling her Mi’s instructions.
Shortly, Mi returned from his cigarette break and remarked amusedly, “Look behind.”
Cherlyn and I turned around and understood. We had left a big zigzag trail of wake, created by our unsteady maneuvering of the boat. We all laughed.
“So did we pass?” I asked after our laughter died down.
“Yes. Of course, now you can stay and apply for a job with us.” Mi joked.
“We passed with that?” I exclaimed, indicating the zigzag pathway we took.
“Of course. No going home now.” Eddie joined in.
“Okay, now for our certificate, can you help us take photographs?” I requested.
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